Mice and rats are coming into my home via the street sewer system. I thought I had fixed the problem eight years ago by cementing a certain area, but there seems to be another opening somewhere. Do you have any suggestions?
If you've ever thought you could mouse-proof or rat-proof your house by sealing up small gaps around the outside, forget it. Mice can squeeze through spaces as small as a nickel, and rats need a space only twice that size to find their way into your home. Mice and rats are great climbers and jumpers, too: mice can leap 12 inches into the air and hop down from the same height without injury, and rats can leap 36 inches vertically and jump off of a 50-foot-tall building without a scratch.
Fortunately, there are a number of ways you can make your house a much less welcoming place for mice and rats:
Do you know of any options in accessible design patio doors? My daughter is in a wheelchair and I need to replace the sliding glass door from the house to the patio/deck. I've looked around and all the patio doors I've found have a 1-inch area at the bottom with rail slots. I need an accessible patio door that is relatively smooth at the bottom so that my daughter can use it without all the trauma of rolling over the sill area.
Hey, I live in southern Kentucky. During the summer months I have condensation dripping off the HVAC in the crawl space. What can I do about that? The crawl space is concrete block with vents on all sides of house and has black plastic on the ground.
The condensation is the result of warm moist air in the crawlspace striking the cold air conditioning duct. As the air is chilled, it releases moisture resulting in the dripping you are reporting. It's like what happens when you bring an ice cold glass outside in the summer, the outside gets wet because the warm moist summer air is being chilled, releasing that moisture.
Two things can help:
It sound's like you already have a crawl space vapor barrier, which is good. You can further reduce the amount of moisture in the crawlspace by improving the grading and drainage at the foundation perimeter, as explained in this article about preventing a wet basement. The approach is exactly the same when you need to reduce the moisture levels in a crawl space.
Second, you can insulate the ducts. Once insulated, the warm air will no longer be able to contact the cold duct surface. No contact, no sweating!
I love your show! I live in "the house that Jack built" - it's colonial and the entire upstairs has no return vents for Heating and Cooling. What's the most economical way to rectify this?
Thanks for listening to the show, glad you're enjoying it! It sounds like your heating system is very uncomfortable because there are no return vents installed. This is a real issue because the way a forced-air heating system works is that the air is heated or cooled at the furnace or air conditioner, and then supplied to the rooms. But, that same air must be returned to be heated and cooled over and over again for that to be efficient. If no return duct was ever installed, I imagine you're very uncomfortable in this place. (And probably wasting a lot of energy, too!)
There are a couple of ways to fix this, one of which is to install returns directly to the room itself. This is the most common, but also the most expensive and hardest to do as a retrofit. A better way is to install one large central return near the upstairs bedrooms and then undercut each bedroom door so the air has a way to get out. By undercut, I mean you would actually physically cut the bottom of the door so there's an inch to an inch-and-a-half of space when the door is closed. This way, air will be drawn from under the door back into the heating system to be reconditioned, then sent back to the rooms. Those are really the only two options that come to mind. I would suggest finding a good-quality heating and cooling contractor to visit the home and give you an additional opinion. The best way to do that is by searching on HomeAdvisor.com!
When purchasing my house, my inspector suggested adding a moisture barrier to the floor of my crawlspace. Looking around, there are many different thicknesses to choose from. How thick does a typical crawlspace moisture barrier need to be? Also, does it have to be rolled out as one large sheet, or could it be just as effective if it was made up of several smaller sections?
Your inspector was very smart to recommend a vapor barrier in the crawlspace. Moisture that is allowed to evaporate up into the floor structure can cause the insulation to become ineffective, and allow it to rot and mold. Moisture gets into a crawlspace A vapor barrier is essentially a plastic sheet that lays across the floor of the crawl space. Before you start this project, it's important that you clean out anything on the crawlspace floor that could pierce the plastic barrier like rocks or wood.
When choosing the plastic barrier, many folks will use polyethylene sheeting, but a better option is to use cross-laminated sheeting. It's about six millimeters thick, making it much stronger and less likely to let moisture pass through. A reinforced cross-laminated product like Tu-Tuf #4 would be best. It will be more expensive, but worth it. This is the kind of project you want to do once, you want to do right, and not have to do again for a long time.
When you lay down the plastic, you want to do so with as few seams as possible. You can purchase special tape that will allow you to seal the seams together, or you can overlap the seams by as much as four feet. Make sure you go end-to-end or inside-to-inside on the foundation wall so you have continuous coverage. In addition to the crawlspace vapor barrier, if you want to reduce moisture in that space you really should pay attention to a few more things.
Starting on the outside of the house, the most important thing to maintain is the grading and the gutters. We wrote an article with more on that here. The gutters must be clean, free-flowing, and the downspout should charge at least four to six feet from the house. The grading, or angle of soil around the house, should also slope away. It should drop about 4 inches over the first 6 feet, and it shouldn't be soil that will absorb and hold a lot of water. For example, topsoil is a bad idea because it's so organic it's like laying sponges around your house. You'd be better off improving the grade with clean fill-dirt, then once the grade is established, cover it with topsoil, mulch, stone, or whatever type of material you choose. Just make sure the grade is established first, and don't put any landscape edging at the outside edge of it that could hold water toward the house. That would be like building a moat around your building, which is something you definitely don't want to do. Combining these efforts together, you will have a crawlspace that will remain dry for many years to come!
I had my cabinets refaced about 8 years ago and now the glue has come loose. I've talked with new cabinet refacing companies who claim refacing has been improved and this won't happen again. (The contractor through Home Depot only guarantees them for 5 years.) Would you recommend refacing or is there a better option?
Refacing cabinets is a process that is often half the cost of replacing your cabinets. Not only that, but you're stuck with your current layout; if you ever want to add cabinets, they will have to be built from scratch and then refaced to match the others. For this reason, we usually recommend looking into other options that give you a great look but are not as pricey.
You'll first have to take a look at your cabinets. If they were installed in the 70's or later, they were likely installed with solid fronts and paper-thin veneers that you won't be able to sand or stain. Your best option there will be painting, which can be done using these helpful tips!
Painting is a great option even for older, solid-wood cabinets. You'll want to clean them out and remove all doors/drawers/hardware. Then, prepare them further by sanding. You can do this by hand or with a liquid sandpaper product. Then, prime the surfaces with an oil-based primer and get started on painting! In order to provide a better wear protection, we recommend painting with an oil-based glossy paint for the finish coat.
Overall, the fact that the veneer is not sticking is unusual. If you decide to go with refacing, make sure you carefully research the contractor. Ask if he will supply a list of past clients, and spend time talking to customers he worked with years ago to see how the cabinets held up. If he will not supply a list, it might be a good sign you should move down the list.
We recently moved into a house next to a road that produces more noise than we expected and I'm considering putting something up to help with the noise.
One option considered is a masonry wall. It's attractive, low-maintenance, and likely the most effective against noise but it's also (roughly) triple the cost of the fence option.
The fence would be a tongue and groove double sided privacy fence with a layer of mass loaded vinyl (MLV) hung between the facing panels to help with sound attenuation. I'd never heard of MLV before I started looking into this, and the only material I can find on is from the guys who sell it, who obviously claim it's the bee's knees.
My question is whether the MLV sandwich fence is going to do a "good enough job" with the road noise to make it a viable option against masonry. Or is the fence without the MLV going to be effective enough?
As the saying goes, "beauty is in the eye of the beholder." Whether an MLV fence will be quiet enough for you is dependent on your tolerance. However, MLV is a very high-tech product that's had a great success record of quieting machines, road noise, and even the occasional garage band! (Here's more information on MLV and its uses.)
To make it effective, however, it has to float. It cannot be stapled directly to the inside of the fence with no way for the material to move back and forth. This is because when those sound waves hit it, they need the flexibility to diffuse. It's kind of like when you throw a rock into the lake. The lake initially absorbs the force of the rock, but then the waves diffuse the force that follows. If you were to make this MLV so tight that it couldn't flex, it wouldn't have as strong of an ability to diffuse that sound. The best approach would be to hang it loosely between the sections of the fence. As to whether or not this will be "good enough," the beauty is in the eye of the beholder. You may find that it's fine. Or, if you have a low tolerance for noise, you may find that it's not. Given the fact that it's one-third of the cost of a concrete barrier, it is certainly worth an effort.
Another thing you could do is to add landscaping on the roadside of the wood fence. This would also help break up the sounds before it gets to the fence, making the MLV assembly even more effective. As this article says, adding a water fountain could be a good idea as well. Good luck with your project and send us a photo when you're done!
I'm renovating a home I just purchased. I want to know if it is ok to tile on plywood. The previous tile in the bathroom was set directly on the plywood and it looked fine. I am reading that tiling on plywood should be avoided, while others are claiming it is okay to do. What do I do?
The bottom line is that you should not apply tile directly to a plywood sub-floor. Tile always needs an underlayment or layer of cement backer to lay on top of, especially in the case of plywood. This is because plywood will expand and contract over time, causing your tile to crack or become loose. It may be cheaper to lay the tile on the plywood sub-floor but best to do the job effectively and prevent paying for the cracked tile as time goes on.
We recommend using a thin-set adhesive to bind the plywood sub-floor with a 1/2" or 1/4" cement backer board. You will then need to use the right screws to secure the cement backer to the plywood. You can also use an underlayment membrane, but just be aware of how high the floor will be off the subfloor. We wish you luck on this project, and look forward to seeing a photo when it's complete!
I am putting butcher block in for the bar top and countertops. What do you recommend as a sealer?
Butcher block is a beautiful addition to any kitchen but can require a lifetime of maintenance to keep it that way! Keep in in mind that as a tree, this same wood was constantly absorbing natural materials. Now that its in the form of your countertop, it'll be sucking in food oils, fats, and become a breeding ground for dangerous bacteria like E-Coli that could cause your family harm if not cared for properly.
You have two options to maintain butcher block: stain the wood and apply a clear finish, or apply food-safe oils regularly instead. If you apply a clear finish, you'll have a lot less on-going maintenance but it's possible that some of the finish can chip off into your food. If you did decide to go this route, make sure the surface and edges are sanded down and wipe the dust away with a damp cloth. Apply the finish in a well-ventilated area, and let it dry for a few days before using it. Please keep in mind that urethane finish usually reeks, so it might be best to open windows and doors or wait until bedtime so it's less of an issue. Then, wait 24 hours (or more if the weather is damp) and repeat those steps.
You'll need to apply oils regularly for the life of the counter. A good rule of thumb to maintain butcher block is to apply them once a day for the first week, once a week for the first month, and once a month for the life of the counter. When you're choosing your oil or conditioner, you must remember that it needs to be food-safe. (Mineral oil is a great choice and you can find it at your local drugstore!) Check labels and read reviews before making your final decision. Once you have your oil or conditioner, take a rag and apply a good amount of it to the counter. As time goes on, you should notice that the wood soaks up less and less oil each time. This means it's working! You might even hit a point where pouring water on the counter results in beading instead of absorption.
We wish you luck with this project, and be sure to send us a picture when you're done!
I have a small cafe and have a small refrigerated display case that works great, but the rubber-coated refrigerator shelves are rusting on the ends. Last year, I cleaned them all, used rust remover on rusty areas, dried them, and painted with epoxy spray paint. Within a few months, it started rusting again. Is there a solution to this problem?
It looks like you did everything right, except for one thing: you did not prime the metal shelves first. The primer has adhesive qualities and is the "glue" that makes the paint stick. It is especially important when the surface is not optimal, like when it's rusted. The good news is, you can fix it!
First, you will need to smooth the shelves by using a material like sandpaper and removing all rust or other unwanted filth. This is also the time to sand any cracking or peeling paint. Then, take time to clean the surfaces. Just make sure you avoid solvent because it could soften the old paint and cause problems with the new paint adhering correctly. Make sure everything is clean and dry.
If the rust has become serious and you could not sand it all down, you'll need a primer that will make it smooth and easy to paint on. If it's at a medium or lower level after being cleaned, you can use a rust primer or preventative primer. You'll want to read the directions on the primer you choose, but commonly, you'll apply several thin coats of primer, let it dry, and add a top coat. You might consider adding another layer of preventative rust product after the top coat.
Then, you'll be good to go. Let us know how this project goes!
Is there any way to match the texture sprayed on drywall when getting the wall ready to paint? I have small nail holes in sections of the texture falling off that need to be retextured.
There are a number of textured surface repair products out for just this situation. For example, Wall Textured Spray Patch in Orange Peel White for Ceilings, Drywall is made by Homax and should do a fine job.
We have squeaking sub-flooring in our hallway upstairs. We have had the carpet pulled back and we are ready to make the floor squeak repair by putting screw nails through the sub-flooring into the floor joists. How long should the screw nails be?
Squeaking floors can be super annoying. Floor squeaks happen for a number of reasons but most commonly because the sub-floor gets loose. That flooring is often put down with a rosin coated nail called a "cooler". The idea is that when the nail is driven the friction melts the glue coating making it less likely to pull out. But in reality, the nails do move and because they are coated by rosin, create floor squeaks that can drive you nuts!
In your question you refer to "screw nails." There's really no such thing. You should be buying case-hardened drywall screws, that are at least 2 1/2 inches thick for the floor squeak repair. Once that carpet is pulled up, I'd screw down each and every sheet of plywood, using 4-5 nails for each floor joist running under each sheet of plywood. If the subfloor is installed on 16" centers, that means you'll need at least 28 screws per sheet! The good news is that they can be easily installed with a drill-driver. Be sure to screw down every single sheet that you can get to because I can guarantee that as soon as you fix one squeak and put the carpet back - another one will immediately pop up!
My mounted bathroom mirror is wedged in and glued to the wall. It extends more than eight feet across, and it three and a half feet from top to bottom. I want to remove the mirror and replace it with framed mirrors - but have no idea how to get it off of the wall. What is the best way to do this?
You're wise to use caution when removing your mirror - especially given its size. You can use one of two methods. Both will require repairing your drywall after, but if done properly, should spare you injury or further headaches - and will leave the mirror in one piece in case you want to decorate with it later.
The first method involves buying a length of cutout wire that's longer than the width of your mirror. Cutout wire is also called windshield removal wire because it's used by auto body shops to repair windshields. Apply clear packing tape over the mirror to minimize mess - and risk of injury - if it breaks. Then stretch the wire tight, and slide it between the back of the mirror and the drywall. With at least two other people holding the mirror in case it falls, wiggle the wire back and forth until the mirror dislodges.
The second method requires a drywall saw. Push the saw into the wall near the edge of the mirror, and remove the section of drywall the mirror is glued to. This is the safer of the two methods, so go with this one if you're fully replacing drywall anyway.
Again, don't attempt mirror removal without a few strong hands there to hold the it once it's been released from the wall. Good luck!
First of all - I adore you guys! I've been listening to the podcast and find it incredibly helpful; you both are so generous with your talents.
I purchased a "starter home" type house when I was single, but got married and moved in with my husband. We rented the house out, keeping in mind we wanted to move back after retiring. Now we're retired and back in my original "Money Pit", and we want to get serious about improvements!
Our house isn't in complete shambles, but we know there's probably a LONG list of things that need to be done. We're overwhelmed and frozen in place. What is the best way to prioritize home repairs? Should we hire a professional who could evaluate the house and give us a game plan?
Thank you for the kind words! Great question, and we totally understand what you're feeling. Lots of people suffer from "analysis paralysis" when faced with so many things to do because they do not know what to do first! There is a great option, however, which you actually brought up in your question. What I would do is hire a professional home inspector to evaluate your home first. Home inspectors are terrific because they are not in the business of selling you repairs. If you were to ask a contractor to do such an inspection, you are guaranteed to be presented with quotes for all the things they would love to fix on your house.
On the other hand, with a home inspector, you'll just be getting a report that gives you the facts. He will tell you what needs to be fixed and in what order. Generally speaking, safety items need to be fixed first. For example, wiring problems that could cause a fire or uneven steps that could cause a fall. Next, you will want to tackle the structural issues that could cause the building to deteriorate. Finally, you will work toward the cosmetics - updating a kitchen, painting a room, or installing new faucets or fixtures. If you would like, you can take a look at this blog where we list out the most popular home improvement projects we're asked about on the national radio show. This may come in handy when you are completing your projects!
All in all, if you use a home inspector you will get that impartial expert advice. The best way to find a home inspector is to find one here, at the American Society of Home Inspectors. Thank you for reaching out, and please let us know if we can help with anything else!
I am trying to solve a problem with peeling paint. I painted my daughter's bedroom using primer and then paint. Now it has become my son's room, and there are spots where the paint just pulls off in long strips and looks like rubber. I want to repaint the room, but have no idea how to handle the areas where the paint is peeling. What can I do?
It's pointless to simply paint over an issue like this, because your new finish won't stick to layers and layers of bad paint. Instead, spend the time and effort to strip away all of the old paint so that you can smoothly brush on a long-lasting new coat. There are several environmentally friendly, low-VOC stripping products on the market, including Ready-Strip Plus, which has a color change feature that tells you when the old paint it has been applied to is ready to be removed. After you have finished this step, repair and sand surfaces, then prime before painting with KILZ Odorless Primer. From there, your paint peeling problem will be gone and you'll be able to apply a new hue that will last until your next room redecoration project comes along.