- [video src="http://3j06nmm5imf1ft0bmf8gu416-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/diyz-videos/InApp_HowToBuildAKidsPicnicTable_FINAL_0.mp4" /]
Kids love furniture that’s just their size. This children’s picnic table is an easy inexpensive build, perfect for those new to DIY. All you need are some basic tools, supplies and about three to four hours. Here’s what you should have on hand for this project:
TOOLS & MATERIALS
- Tape Measure
- Miter Saw
- Power Drill/Driver
- Combination Square
- Quick Square
- Paint Brush
- 1″ x 3″ x 8″ Pine (4)
- 1″ x 6″ x 8″ Pine
- 2″ Deck Screws
- 80-Grit Sandpaper
- Exterior Wood Glue
When taking on this DIY task be sure to equip yourself with the proper safety gear.
- Eye Protection
- Ear Protection
Cut wood. Use a miter saw to cut your wood to size. Cut three 1″ x 6″ boards to 31″ long for the top of the picnic table. Cut four 1″ x 3″ legs to 22″ and 7-1/16″ long. Cut two 1″ x 3″ bottom and top supports to 25-½” long. Cut two 1″ x 3″ aprons 17-½” long. Cut four 1″ x 3″ feet boards to 31″ long. Cut two 1″ x 3″ seat supports to 33″ long.
Cut angles. Lay out your angle cuts on the aprons and seat supports, marking one edge of each 1¼” from both ends. Draw diagonal lines from each mark to the nearest end of the board and cut along the angles. For the legs, mark opposite sides of each board 1¼” from each end so the top and bottom cuts are parallel. Draw lines from each mark to the diagonal edge and make your cuts.
Assemble aprons to top support. Mark the middle of your apron the bottom of the short side, then make two marks 3/8″ from the center point. Apply glue on both ends of the support piece and place in between the marks. Apply glue to the apron, then fastened with 2″ deck screws. Repeat this process for the second side using your quick square to ensure all angles are properly aligned.
Attach top boards. Place the assembly topside up on your work surface. Use a combination square to mark 2″ in on each end. Apply glue along the top of the upper support and fasten to the apron with four 2″ deck screws. Repeat for the opposite side. Center the third board between the other two, fastened with 2″ deck screws, sinking each screw slightly below the surface.
Mark legs for seat support. It’s important that all seat supports meet your table legs at the same height. To ensure this, mark all legs at the same time, then clamp them together in a stack, confirming they’re flush at the sides, top and bottom. Mark 12-¾” from the bottom of the top leg. Using a square, extend that mark down one side of each leg.
Attach legs. Place the table top assembly upside down on your work surface. Apply glue on the overlap area, then position the legs against the apron with the outside edge of each leg aligned with the top corner of the apron. Secure the legs with 1-¼” screws.
Install seat supports. Measure and mark 4‑¼” from each end of the seat supports. Apply glue on your marks and attach the legs with two 1-¼” in each leg.
Install bottom support. Measuring from your left along the short side, strike a square line at the top of each seat support at 16‑½”. Apply glue on the ends of the bottom support and center it into place. Check that the bottom support is aligned along the seat supports and fasten it with one to two 2″ deck screws.
Attach seat boards. Apply wood glue and position the outer boards flush to the outside of the seats supports. Each board should overhang the supports by two inches on each end. Position the inner boards ½” away from the outer boards. Confirm the ends are flush and screw them into place.
Edges and apply finish. Sand the entire table with 80 grit sandpaper, rounding over the edges to prevent splinters. Paint or stain if you’d like, and apply a clear finish.
Your build is complete.