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You're right Mike. Getting the dryer vent connection right is far more important than most people know, and for several reasons. First off, its important for safety. Dirty dryer ducts are a leading cause of house fires. Plus, the longer the dryer has to work to vent that moisture, the more energy it burns up in the process, not to mention the increased wear and tear on the clothes as they tumble around a lot longer than they need to.
It sound's like you've tried the straight forward approach of snaking the vent behind the machine, but the key here is (and as you've observed) to do this without crushing the vent. In fact, you want to do this with as few bends and turns as possible. Every 90 degree turn, provide the same resistance as 20 additional feet of duct run, so the fewer twists and turns the better. Here's a couple ideas that might help.
- Take a look at the layout of the dryer exhaust inside your house. What happens when that duct gets into the wall? Can it be changed for easier access? There are a number of prefabricated ducted dryer exhaust configurations that can help. In some cases, it may be smart to cut open the wall to adjust the position or re-run the duct completely.
- Look at the dryer. Many can be easily modified so that the exhaust ducts out the side, instead of the back. When I remodeled my laundry room a couple years ago, I did just that. Now, instead of the duct taking two turns and then running 20 feet under my son's bedroom, it goes all of 18 inches out the side of the dryer and through the exterior wall. Our clothes have never dried faster!
- Once you have the ducting set, be sure to keep it clean. Cleaning a dryer vent is easy if you have a right tool. Now that I have a short exhaust duct run, its not as critical but before that, I used an inexpensive dryer duct cleaning tool called the Gardus Lint Eater. It is a series of flexible piping that link together and has a big brush on the end. It snakes its way through your dryer venting system and will get rid of all of those dangerous lint bunnies lurking in the dryer vent.
Lastly, it is also important to replace plastic or vinyl dryer ducts with metal duct material, which is sturdy, making it easier to clean your dryer vents.
Hope this helps!
I can understand why you are having trouble locating someone to move your greenhouse. Moving a structure is a difficult task in the best of circumstances, but when the structure is a greenhouse, it would seem even more so. To move any building, it has to be first be reinforced to prevent "sway" which is what would happen if the building were to move side to side. The weakest part of any wall are the openings and since greenhouses are mostly glass, I'd imagine that moving it would be extremely difficult or even if it could be moved, perhaps even more costly than building a new one from scratch. A lot of this would also depend on how the building was initially constructed. For example, if this was a greenhouse built on a concrete slab, it really has no floor structure that's a part of it so you'd really only be moving the walls, which again, might not even be possible.
Plus, dont forget that the new building or new location would need to meet current zoning laws, which would dictate where on your property the building could be located, or even IF you can add the building at all.
When you bought the house, this issue should have been discovered and disclosed by the company that did your survey. If it wasn't, that's a big problem and I'd speak with an attorney about what options you may have. Discovering that a building falls across two property lines is exactly the kind of issue a survey should discover and disclose.
Given the above, you might want to simply consider building a new green house using one of the many available and affordable green house kits.
Restoring the holes in soil may be that easy but it really depends on how deep of a pit it left. If it's more than a 3 or 4 inches, you should first fill it in with clean fill dirt, and then add top-soil and plant grass, or use another covering to stop erosion.
Top soil is just that, meant to be the top layer or dirt. It's rich in organic matter and designed to support root growth. For everything deeper, use the clean fill dirt, which is available from a landscape supply hour. Be sure to tamp it as yo go, and add more than you need because it will settle over the first few rain storms.
Hope this helps!
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