How To Build Outdoor Bike Storage |Video

  • Transcript

    If you have bikes to store but don’t have a garage or any space left in your garage, outdoor bike storage is a great way to safely store them throughout the year.  This project will help you build a 6’ x 8’ shed that holds four or more bikes.  It can be built in a single weekend and doesn’t require any complex cuts or calculations.  Here’s what you’ll need to take on this build.


    • 4 x 8 x 16 Solid Cement Blocks (4)
    • 4 x 8 ¾” Ext. Plywood
    • 4 x 4 ½” Ext. Plywood
    • 8 Ft. Pressure-Treated (PATIENT) 2 x 6 (2)
    • 12 Ft. PT 2 x 6 (2)
    • 1” Exterior Screws
    • 2” Exterior Screws
    • 3” Exterior Screws
    • ½” x 4’ x 8’ PT Plywood
    • 8 Ft. 2 x 4 (20)
    • 12 Ft. 2 x 4 (5)
    • 16 Ft. 2 x 4 (4)
    • 8 Ft. 2 x 6 (2)
    • 16 Ft. 5/4 x 6 PT Decking (2)
    • 8 Ft. PT 2 x 4
    • 10 Ft. PT 2 x 4
    • 8 Ft. 1 x 4 (6)
    • ½” x 4” x 8” PT Plywood (2)

    When taking on this DIY task, be sure to equip yourself with the proper safety gear.



    Build floor frame.  Using pressure-treated 2 x 6s, frame the floor so its outside dimensions are 91 x 73-1/2 inches.  Add 70-½” 2 x 6 joists on 24” centers.  Be careful the center joist is positioned with an outside edge of 48-3/4 inches from one side of the frame, so the joint between the smaller pieces of the plywood will be supported.


    Finish floor.  Fasten the corners of a 4 x 8 sheet of ¾” exterior plywood to one-quarter of the frame with 1-½” exterior screws.  Use the sheet to square up the frame, then fasten with screws every foot.  Cut the plywood in half with a table saw.  Fasten the pieces in place, letting the edge run beyond the framing.


    Trim floor.  Before trimming your plywood, unplug your circular saw and set the blade so it extends just below the wood.  Use a straightedge to strike a line slightly in from the framing and make your cut.


    Frame back wall.  The frame for the back wall of your shed will be 91-1/2 inches wide and 65-3/4 inches tall.  Begin by cutting the top and bottom plates to 91-1/2 inches.  Lay them beside each other on the sawhorses and mark for studs every 24 inches with a speed square.  Cut five studs, 62-3/4 inches long, with a miter saw, then fasten to the plates and into the studs with 3” exterior screws.


    Frame side walls.  Cut two bottom plates 65 inches long, then cut two 60-inch studs, two 68-inch studs, two 76-inch studs, and two 84-inch studs.  After you make your cuts mark 21” between each stud, then fasten through the underside of the plate with 3” screws.  About 50 inches up the wall attach a temporary 1 x 4 or 2 x 4 marked with the stud spacing.


    Level floor frame.  You’ll support each corner of the frame with cement block and a small amount of sand; just a couple inches will do.  Set the frame on the blocks and, adding or taking away sand, level the entire frame.


    Install back wall.  Set the back wall upright on the floor, then fasten with 3” exterior screws in the bottom plate between each stud.


    Install side wall frames.  Place the short end of each side into the back wall and fasten to the end stud with four 3” screws.  Then fasten the bottom plate of each side to the floor with three 3” screws.


    Cut siding.  Cut a piece of 4 x 8 T111 plywood siding to 92-1/2 inches, 1 inch longer than the back wall frame, with a circular saw.  This will allow the plywood to overlap the sidewall so the plywood edge is covered.  Use a framing square or the factory edge of each piece as a guide for squaring up the frame.  Then cut a piece of 4 x 8 siding to 72 inches so it fits lengthwise between the back wall siding and the front frame when it’s installed later.


    Install siding.  Using 1-½” exterior screws every 12 inches, attach the plywood to the back wall frame so it extends half an inch beyond each side and 6-1/4 inches below the bottom plate.  Finish the top of the back wall by cutting and attaching a strip of plywood.  Ease the installation of the top piece on the side wall by using 1-½” screws every 12 inches, attaching it to the frame groove side up.  Cut the top piece to length, then mark two feet up from the bottom side on one side.  Strike a line from that point to the opposite corner, cut the plywood, and install.


    Build front frame.  The front of your shed has a top 2 x 6 beam; otherwise, it’s made of 2 x 4s.  Lay four 2 x 4s in a square and build a frame using 3” screws.  Confirm the outside dimensions by measuring the opening between your side walls and their actual height.


    Install front frame.  With a helper, lift the frame into place.  Fasten 3” screws to the sidewall studs closest to the front, placing them every 12 inches.  Attach the bottom 2 x 4 at the front frame by toe fastening 3” screws from the inside every two feet.  Then, using 3” screws, attach a flat 2 x 4 to both sides of the front frame.  Finish by fastening the flat 2 x 6 to the top of the front frame.


    Frame roof.  Measure the length of the front and back of your shed.  The measurements should be the same, but if there is any difference between them use the longest measurement and add three inches so the roof frame will fit over the side wall.  Lay the two pieces side by side, and using a speed square mark a line to the right of it at 23-1/4 inches, 47-1/4 inches, and 71-1/4 inches from one end.  These marks show the location of the crosspieces you’ll be installing in the next step.


    Cut and install crosspieces.  Cut five 2 x 4 crosspieces to 93 inches.  Drill pilot holes in the front and back pieces, then install two 3” screws in both ends of the crosspieces.


    Add bridging.  To strengthen the corrugated roofing and frame, fasten center bridging with 3” screws.  Measure and precut the pieces, staggering the ends for easy fastening.


    Set roof frame in place.  Have a helper lift the frame into the bike shed.  The side walls should slip inside the outermost pieces of the roof.  Slide the frame so it overhangs on the front of the shed about one foot.  Working from the plywood side of the walls, install 1” screws every 12 inches.  If possible, fasten 3″ screws into your wall studs, as well.


    Add corrugated panels.  You’ll be overlapping four corrugated roofing panels by two inches for an 8 x 10 roof.  Start by equipping your drill or driver with a magnetic socket designed to fasten #9 1” roofing screws.  Attach the panels to your frame’s 2 x 4s with roofing screws every 12 inches or so.


    Prep walls for the roll-in bike racks.  Make a mark 44 inches up the back wall.  Then measure the side wall studs and cut a 2 x 6 to that length.  Align the top edge of the 2 x 6 with the mark, level it, and attach it to the wall with 3″ screws at each stud.


    Make bike racks.  It’s finally time to build your new bike racks.  Start by cutting two 2 x 4 sides 60 inches long with two opposite 45-degree angled ends.  Attach a scrap of 5-½’ wide siding as shown using 1” screws.  Drill pilot holes and install the first rack 12 inches from the side with 3″ screws.  Fasten one end of the rack to the 2 x 6 back wall and the other to the floor.  Next, cut two 2 x 4s, each with an end cut at 45 degrees, so it fits in the floor between the rack upright and lip of the front frame.  Install as many racks as you’d like.  The maximum space needed between each rack should be 25 inches.  This will provide enough room for 24” mountain bike handlebars.  If you don’t anticipate storing any mountain bikes, feel free to space them closer together.


    Install track hardware.  Following manufacturer’s instructions, install the track to the underside of the front frame interior, allowing enough space for the 1-¼” thickness of each door.


    Make sliding doors.  The exact dimensions of your shed’s doors depend on the type of sliding door hardware you choose.  Cut the doors to length from ½” 4 x 8 sheets of exterior plywood.  Using the full width of the plywood should give you the right amount of overlap for the sliders.  Reinforce the plywood along the edges and across the middle by attaching 1 x 4 strips with screws and glue.


    Add door pull hole.  Using a 1-½” hole saw, bore a hole 36 inches from the bottom of each and 4 inches in from the opposite side.  Then attach the hangers and install the doors.


    Frame ramp.  Build a horizontal decking ramp supported by pressure-treated 2 x 4s every 16 inches.  Measure and attach 2 x 4s to the bottom of the front frame to secure the doors in place.  You’ll also attach your ramp supports to this piece.  To make the 2 x 4 angle cuts, hold a corner of scrap siding level against the front of the shed.  Make a mark at the upper edge of the bottom 2 x 4 on the front frame.  Then, from that mark, strike a diagonal line 24 inches to the bottom of the scrap.  Mark seven supports for cutting.  Use one of the supports to figure out where to attach an eight-foot 2 x 6 to the front of the shed.  With the bottom edge about one inch above grade, this will act as a beam to rest the supports.  Locate the 16-inch centers of each support, then fasten with 3″ screws.


    Add decking.  Cut four eight-foot long pieces of decking.  Start by butting the topmost piece against the shed and attaching it to the supports with two 2” screws at each support.  Space each piece a half an inch as you work your way down the incline, then smooth the cut edge with a sanding block equipped with medium grit sandpaper.


    Paint or stain.  Now that your build is done, it’s time to paint your new shed.  If you decide to paint your shed, be sure to prime the wood first.  We recommend staining the ramp to avoid wear and tear.  Whatever you decide, a deep-nap roller with a three-inch brush will get the job done.

    Your bike shed is finished!  Step back and admire your new build.

    Looking for great tools to help get your project done? Shop Stanley, Black & Decker and DeWALT for everything you need!


Leave a Reply