On the Wire - No Escaping Scraping
Getting ready to give the outside of your house a new coat of paint? Whether it’s because you want a change or your siding has seen better days, there is one thing you can count on: There’s no escaping scraping. You’ll have to use a good bit of elbow grease to get that surface ready. So here are some of the best ways to get paint off a house, from the folks at www.FineHomebuilding.com magazine:
Use a Pressure Washer, But Let the Soap Do the Work: The first thing on the to-do list is to wash the entire house to remove dirt, mold, mildew, and other contaminants that can interfere with paint adhesion. A pressure washer can scour walls clean and even strip peeling paint, but at close range, a pressure washer can damage the house and drive water deep into the walls. Because trapped moisture is a leading cause of paint failure, the pressure washer should be used only to apply soap and to rinse.
Scraping Paint is No Fun, But it Must Be Done: Hand-scraping is arguably the worst job in all the trades, but a few tips can make it a little less painful. First, always work with a sharp scraper blade. A good two-handed carbide-blade scraper is a good purchase to avoid the constant sharpening or replacing of the less expensive steel-blade versions. Second, make sure you are using the scraper as it is intended. Like a lawn-mower blade, the scraper is designed to work in one direction only. Two-handed scrapers must be pulled toward the body. Pushing dulls the blade, gouges the wood, and wears you out. And thirdly, after scraping, the remaining paint should be able to pass the “fingernail test”: Its edge can’t be lifted with your fingernail.
Sanding Smooths the Surface: The main objective in the sanding process is to smooth the transitions from painted wood to bare wood. This allows for an even film thickness when primer and paint are applied. Use 80-grit sandpaper and an orbital sander to soften the sharp transition scraping leaves between paint and bare wood. And when it comes to bare wood, whether new or recently scraped, it should also be sanded to remove mill glaze and the gray layer that develops on the surface.
Repairs are Part of Painting: Paint can cover-up problems, but not for long. Be sure to address problem areas with either a repair or replacement. If the damaged area is easy to replace, replace it. Sometimes just flipping over a cosmetically damaged board can save time and money. However, if the damage is minimal or is part of a complicated system like a windowsill, a repair might be in order. For a tough, permanent repair that cures evenly and quickly, try using Bondo. There is no need to waste money on high-price epoxies, because, when used correctly, Bondo will outlast us all! To keep wood repairs and wood filler from being rejected, it is a good idea to immobilize the surrounding wood by saturating the area with a resin-based treatment like Minwax Wood hardener.
Priming is Almost the Last Step: Although each step is critical to the process, priming always seems most important because it locks in the progress and ends the bulk of the prep work. When using either a sprayer or a roller to apply, the primer has to be back-brushed to even it out, to work into porous areas, and to keep it from building up in the corners. Primer should be painted within two weeks, or it will need a light sanding to remove oxidation.
Don’t forget Caulking: The primary purpose of caulking is to seal gaps that would allow water to penetrate the house. But keep in mind that some gaps should never be sealed. As a rule, never caulk the bottom edge of a window casing or the horizontal spaces between clapboards. Those spaces are critical to a house’s ability to release moisture.
Remember Your Lead-Paint Safety: If your house was built before 1978, there is a 75% chance that it contains lead paint. Undisturbed lead paint is harmless, but dust or paint chips created during paint prep or other remodeling projects post health hazards, especially to young children. For more information on lead-paint safety, log on to www.nsc.org, the National Safety Council’s web site.
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Ask Tom & Leslie - Leak Location 101
This week’s question comes to us from John in New Hampton, Iowa: “Our shower upstairs is leaking down the wall to our basement. I've checked everywhere for leaks and it looks like it is in the plumbing somewhere between the shower and kitchen drain. I don't know what to do next except to start tearing the shower out and seeing if I can find the leak. What is your suggestion?”
John, shower leaks can be tricky to diagnose because there are many places that water can escape. So, before you grab the wrecking bar, let’s be absolutely sure we know where the leak is. To isolate a shower leak, we need to start at the drain and work up. Get a garden hose and run it directly into the shower drain. Be sure to aim the hose so the water goes right into the drain, not across the shower pan and definitely not on any of the shower walls so you can be confident you are testing only the drain pipes by themselves. Then run the hose and check for leaks. If you find one, the leak is in the plumbing and you’ll need to open the ceiling below to figure out where.
If the drains pass the hose test, then the next thing to check is the shower pan. Take a wash cloth and plug the shower drain. Then fill the shower pan up with as much water as it can hold without overflowing (usually 3-5 inches). Next, check the area below to see if it leaks. If it leaks with the pan, but not with the drain, you may need to replace the shower pan, which is a time consuming, messy and costly job.
Now, for some better news: if you have not been able to recreate the leak with either of the above tests, the leak is most likely due to voids in the grout joints or in the caulk seems which are easy to fix. Very often, these leaks happen as water splashes off your body when taking a shower. It takes only the tiniest void for water to work behind the walls and leak down to the space below. Find that void and you will fix your leak, without the need to do any exploratory wall or ceiling surgery!
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Got A Question About Your Money Pit?
You can do-it-yourself but you don't have to do-it-alone. Getting in touch with us is as easy as 1 - 2 or 3!
- The toll-free studio hot line is 1-888-MONEY PIT. Find out when we broadcast in your area by checking out our website at www.moneypit.com. Each week we take dozens of calls, give great advice and offer callers a chance to win a terrific prize awarded to one random caller to every show.
- Call when it's convenient for you, 24 hours a day, same number: 1-888-MONEY PIT. A live person takes your call 24/7! So -- WHENEVER you have a home improvement question -- phone it in. Simply tell our phone screener your first name, and where you're calling from...and ask your question. We’ll get back to you with the answer – or even call you back during the show!
- Click here to email your question to us. We may read your email on the air and we also respond personally to many of the email questions we get.
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On the Air - Clear the Air Sweepstakes
OCTOBER IS INDOOR AIR QUALITY MONTH, AND YOU COULD WIN AN APRILAIRE MODEL 5000 ELECTRONIC AIR CLEANER, WITH PROFESSIONAL INSTALLATION!
If seasons are changing where you live, you're heading back indoors for the next several months. But WHO...and WHAT else is sneaking-in-the-door behind you? As we've tightened-up our homes to make them more energy-efficient, we've made it harder for them to 'breathe.' The unintended consequence is uninvited guests, who can't leave. Dust mites, bacteria, viruses, pollen, pet dander, and mold spores get trapped indoors with you for the winter. According to the EPA, indoor air can be up to five times more polluted than outdoor air! If you've got a forced-air heating system, we can help. It's a $1000 value, and it could be yours! Deadline to enter is October 31, 2006. There’s no purchase necessary. Read complete contest rules on the entry page at www.moneypit.com.
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Dot Common Sense - Reach Right
If you’re buying a new home, there’s most likely a microwave in the kitchen. But builders love to mount microwaves above the stove or high on a wall. These ovens are hard to reach. And they can be a hazard. They force you to reach above your head to get hot foods out of the oven. Lose your balance and you could burn yourself, break a dish, or both. Get the most from your microwave. Put it where you can reach it without stretching or bending. The oven should be no higher than 48 inches above the floor. Is your microwave on the wall? Then put a shelf under the oven where you can rest hot foods after they finish cooking. Better yet, put your microwave on a counter that won't melt if it gets hot. Leave plenty of room on the counter to place hot dishes. Visit www.AARP.org for a complete checklist that will help you figure out where hazards in your home are hiding.
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Fun Fact - Shocking News About Your Electrical System
This might shock you – but one out of every four homes needs an electrical upgrade. If your current home improvement project will include additional electrical wiring to your existing system, stop right there. One out of every four homes needs an electrical service upgrade before new or additional wiring is installed. Modern family needs usually require at least a 100 amp service. To assess your needs and to do the work, always rely on a licensed professional electrician. You should never attempt to work with electrical systems on your own.
There is one electrical projects you can, and should try. Install a programmable or clock set-back thermostat to wake up to a warm house every morning. There are even models that you can program differently for every day of the week, allowing you to keep heat low when you are away from the house on the weekdays, and higher when you’ll be home on the weekends. And imagine not having to face the shock of a cold house after a few days away! To learn how to install a programmable thermostat, click here
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Short Cuts - Pillow Talk
Nothing says luxury like throw pillows in rich fabrics and warm colors. But think “outside the bed” to use this versatile decorating item in new and interesting ways. Fill an oversized basket with coordinated pillows to add interest and texture to an empty corner of your office or living room. Stack pillows under an end or side table to soften hard lines. With a little imagination, your pillows will become more than just a place to rest your head!
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Copyright 2006 Squeaky Door Productions, Inc.
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